Vino, Vino, y más Vino

This past weekend, I visited my third country in South America... Argentina! Because we had a holiday on Monday, my friends and I decided to take a long weekend in Mendoza, Argentina to visit bodegas (wineries), eat delicious meats, and just enjoy ourselves! It is about a 6 hour bus ride to and from Viña, not including the time spent with customs at the border. With customs, overall, about an 8 hour day of traveling! Oof! Thankfully the buses here are great, and "semi-cama" which means that the seats lean back so far that they are "semi-beds" and much more comfortable!

After a long day of bussing on Friday, we finally made it to Mendoza! Once we exchanged some money at the bus terminal, we caught two taxis and made our way to the hostel. Taxis in Mendoza are much easier to find and much cheaper than here in Viña! For example, a 10 minute taxi ride cost about 16 Argentinian Pesos, about the equivalent of a little more than $5.00USD! Awesome! Our hostel, Hostel Empedrado, was great... free glass of wine every night, called all of our taxis for us, 15 minute walk from the beautiful Plaza de Independencia, clean rooms/bathrooms, and crepes/pancakes with dulce de leche for breakfast. Oh yeah. The crepes/pancakes may or may not have been the #1 reason for us choosing this hostel, and it was well worth it! That night we were all pretty tired, and we split into two groups for dinner. Our group was 5 girls, and as we were about to leave, Gabi made friends with two British guys who were hanging out in the lobby! They ended up coming to dinner with us... and boy did we love listening to their wonderful accents the whole time! We all had some wine, pasta, and red meat. Yum. We really savor good, flavorful food when we can find it! After dinner we considered going out, but were pretty exhausted and opted instead to buy a bottle of wine (from the gas station no less, it was the only place we could really find open on the walk back), and relaxed on the terrace of our hostel! A great first evening in Argentina!

The next day we had made plans to go bike around some nearby wineries, which are called bodegas here.  We met up with our friend Nicole Weiss who is studying in Mendoza, caught a local bus to a town nearby called Maipú, which took us about 45 minutes to get too. Once there, we found the bike company we wanted to use, Maipú Bikes, got some bikes ($7.00USD each for the day), got some maps, marked out where we wanted to go, and were on our way! Thankfully these bikes were in much better condition that the ones we used in San Pedro de Atacama... no popped tires or pedals falling off this time! Our first bodega was also a museum, and really great! It was called "La Rural".  It was a little bit more expensive that the other bodegas in the area, but well worth it in the end of the tour (details further down). We paid 50 pesos each, about $10USD, and started the tour. It was in spanish, and thankfully I am now really comfortable with my spanish to the point that it really wouldn't have mattered if the tour were in english or spanish! At the end of the tour, we got to try a really good red wine. And then they proceeded to tell us that with our receipts for the tour, we could put the 50 pesos we paid towards any wine that we wanted! Since 50 pesos was only about $10USD, I figured that for a bottle from such a nice winery I would have to pay a little extra on top of that, but crazily enough, I got TWO bottles for under $10! And it's not cruddy wine! I got a Sauvignon Blanc and a sweet rose wine. Definitely not upset about it.  Bodega number two was on the complete opposite side of town, about a 11km bike ride. Not that far, but when you have 4 bottles of wine in a backpack on your back, that makes things a little harder (I was carrying Lindsey's too, it was her backpack we were using so I figured it was only fair)!  This winery was where we planning to eat lunch, and let me tell you, it was probably one of the best decisions our group has ever made. SO GOOD. The vineyard and area was so cute, much smaller than the first and was an old family vineyard. It was called Bodega Familia de Tomaso. The tables outside were positioned on top of old wine barrels, and we were immediately brought fresh bread with olive oil. Yes please. We ordered our food, and around the table had a mixture of fresh chicken with spices and rice, lasagna made with crepe layers instead of noodles (what I had), salads, lemonade made with mint leaves, tiramisu, warm brownies, etc. If your mouth isn't watering, you might want to go get yourself checked out, cuz mine is watering just thinking about it again! The tour after lunch was also really good, and we were able to try 4 wines at the end of the tour. At the end of the day, we made our way back to Maipú Bikes, and were greeted with homemade lemonade and grapefruit juice. I mean really!? Come on! Argentina really knows how to do it.

Old way of straining wine.

Bodega #1

Beautiful vineyards and flowers at Bodega #2

The lunch crew!

More vineyards and flowers.

We made our way back to the hostel that night, all exhausted from the biking, wine, and sun, and showered up! That night we had signed up to participate in the asado that our hostel was having. After having had two asados at hostels in my time here in South America, I feel I can now give the advice that you should always, always, always sign up for the asados they provide. It is usually all you can eat delicious meats, salads, wine, etc. etc. for a really good price. We paid about $13.00USD for more food than one person should ever consume. So amazing. Also a fun note, my friend Lisa Parker, who is studying in Mendoza, came over for the asado! Lisa and I met in our spanish class of Winter Quarter 2012, and also had spanish together during Spring Quarter, and enjoyed getting to know each other! After consuming my own body weight in wine and meat, we all decided to go out on the town for a little. After a little we ended up getting separated, and Lisa and I decided to buy some alfajores and talk a bit! For those of you who don't know what alfajores are, they are delicious. Eat some if you come here. They are this soft cookie-ish, graham cracker-ish things filled with dulce de leche/manjar (similar to caramel), and usually covered in chocolate. I prefer when they are covered with white chocolate, but they are incredible either way. In appearance, they remind me of my Dad and brother's favorite Southern snack food, moon pies... but the flavor and taste is much much better! Lisa had to meet up with her parents the next morning at the airport, and I was pretty tired anyway, so we caught taxis and went our separate ways! Another great night!

Sunday morning some of us had planned on going to some hot springs in a town called Cachueta, about an hour from Mendoza! Lindsey and I ended up going by ourselves... you know what they say about how good the wine is in Mendoza... it may have affected some of our traveling companions a little bit too much! Regardless, we had a lot of fun! The hot springs were actually really nice, a lot of locals (as in Argentinians) were there, in fact, it appeared as though there were very few tourists! We had arrived around 11:30am, and our bus wasn't schedule to leave until 6:45pm... after about 3 hours though, we were ready to go home! The springs were beautiful and we were definitely enjoying them, but there's only so long that someone can enjoy them! Thankfully, we were able to switch our bus tickets to the earlier bus. While waiting for that bus to arrive, Linds and I decided that we wanted to splurge a little bit and buy some junk food, so we got ourselves some Coca-Cola's and lollipops, found a nice bench to sit on, and enjoyed our purchases! After we got back to the hostel, we took a very windy walk around Mendoza, showered, and got ready to go to dinner with Katherine and Kassi as well! A woman from our hostel recommended a restaurant with delicious pasta, and we all decided to share four different dishes four ways, and man was it delicious! Accompanied by wine, chocolate mousse and fruit ice cream, that was definitely a dinner to write home about! After so much food, it goes without saying that we were carrying gigantic food babies, so we went back to the hostel, all laid on Katherine and Kassi's queen bed, and just vegged and talked!

Coke and Lollipops at the bus station!

Exploring Mendoza! National Bank.

Bed came pretty early that night since we were all so full and exhausted. The next day consisted of yet another glorious eight hours traveling in bus, but regardless of the amount of time spent in the buses, this trip was very relaxing and the food was amazing. Definitely a nice change of pace with the latter!!!

I know this is pretty late, and I still have some updates about this week and weekend, so hopefully I can get that next one started soon! Until next time!

TREMBLOR! And Sergio.

Two blog posts in one day, woah! Excessive, I know, but I have to document this.

I FELT MY FIRST TREMBLOR/EARTHQUAKE today in Chile! Woah! It was a 5.7 magnitude from origination! Since my house usually shakes even when a truck drives by, at first I figured it was nothing more, but considering it lasted about 10-15 seconds and was a bit stronger than when a truck goes by, I figured it was actually the real deal this time! It was actually pretty cool to experience, but I think I'd be okay if that was my first and only while here in Chile!

Also, for those of you who are consistent blog followers, I ran into my old man friend Sergio again tonight on my walk back from class! ¡Que raro! Naturally he asked me what I thought of the presidential debate that happened at DU (yes, he remember I went there...) and how my spanish is going.  He also offered to help me practice my spanish more. I kindly declined, as I was getting more and more of a weird/creepy vibe from him... but regardless, interesting to see him again!

How's that for a day of events!?

Árbol de Dinero? No.

Querido Chile, no estoy hecho de dinero. Y yo no tengo un árbol hecho de dinero tampoco. For my non spanish speaking parents, grandparents, and friends... translation: Dearest Chile, I'm not made of money. And I don't have a tree made of money either. While I can certainly find several things pretty cheap down here, there are some things that are just ridiculously priced! I know some of them are rather American, and are therefore imported... but still. Just to complain a little more, here are some examples:

Peanut butter: $5.25-$8.00 USD.  This is very American. People here don't like peanut butter. But they should, because it's the greatest food/condiment ever. Enough said. Plus it tastes great with everything. Okay there, now enough said.

Vitamins: $10.00 USD for a bottle of 60 Vitamin C pills. At the beginning of my time here, when I seemed to have a cold every other 4 days, I thought this would be a good investment. It was, but man, much more than I would've liked to have paid.

Sunscreen: $28.00 USD. Ouch. After going skiing in the Andes and frying my face, I decided I needed some of this. The small bottles were like $15, and weren't even half of the size of the bottle I bought. You can find cheaper, but the bottles are smaller, so I figured I met as well buy the big momma. While this is crazy expensive, it's worth saving the skin!

Tampons: $8.00 USD for a pack of 18. Really!? It's not like I even have the option of whether or not to buy these! All women need these things, so why so much!? Do Chilean women not have periods!? What the stink. Not cool.

Earplugs: $5.00 USD for ONE PAIR.  TWO earplugs. And they have strings attached to them. What?

Pencils: $5.00 USD and only come in packs of two. At least for mechanical. I couldn't find any others at the stores I visited!

Chocolate chips: I can't even tell you how much these cost, because they are not sold in any grocery stores. Yup. Nowhere. If you want to purchase these, you must go to a special store that specifically sells baking foods/items!

Snickers bars: $2.00 USD... Okay so that's not too terrible, I'm just used to grabbing my Snickers from the Tennis Center whenever I want and using the 50% off employee discount, so in this case I'm just spoiled. Well, I guess I'm kind of spoiled in all the cases, but you catch my drift.

Small cup of hot chocolate: $4.00 USD. Why a small cup of hot chocolate costs more than an alcoholic beverage here still does not make sense to me... but DANG these Chileans know how to make good hot chocolate. I can't get enough. Sorry bank account, this cost isn't going anywhere!

So for those of you thinking of traveling or studying in Chile in the future, make sure to pack accordingly. Yes it'll take up space in your suitcases, but it will be worth saving the money, I promise!

Perú

"Though we may travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or find it not." -Ralph Waldo Emerson

What an incredible and life changing week I just had, and it couldn't have been with better company, thanks to the lovely Rachel Romero! Where to start, where to start. I guess I'll go with a day-by-day description in hopes that I can be a bit more organized with my thoughts. Here goes!

Sunday, September 30th: Went to bed Saturday night around 11pm with the alarm set for 4am since I needed to leave for the bus station at 4:30am.  I was so excited for the trip, that I didn't end up being able to fall asleep until about 1:30 or 2am! Oh well, as we say here in Chile, ¡así es la vida! Got to the bus station safe and sound around 4:50am, and got on the bus ready for a nice nap on the way to the airport! Once on the bus, all was good. Minus the scary, drunk bum chasing and banging on the bus to try and get on. But besides that, all was good :) Made it to the airport, went through customs, casually got hit on by the customs officer, and then treated myself to a muffin and coffee from the Ruby Tuesday café (yes, there are Ruby Tuesday café's here in Chile). Once in Lima, I waited for about 20-30 minutes and then Rachel walked up to our gate, and the long awaited reunion occurred! BAH! It was everything we dreamed of and more, ha! Once we were in Cusco, we were looking for our taxi driver from the hostel, and after a little confusion of where we actually were, we walked outside the airport gate and saw him there with my name on a board! Kyle Fwigart a Pariwana Hostal. Yup, that's me. Our hostel was great, really big with a bar/restaurant, a little plaza in the middle, and our room was perfect! Two twin beds with the bathroom literally a 15 second walk out our door, and in the quietest part as well! And only a 5 minute walk to the beautiful Plaza de Armas! Que suerte. 

La Plaza de Armas

After resting a bit and getting settled in, we met up with a fellow DU student, Hannah! Hannah is studying in Cusco, and is in the PLP program with Rachel! We met in La Plaza de Armas, and the three of us as well as Hannah's friend who was also studying in Cusco all went on a trek to find the restaurant with the supposed best sangria in all of Cusco, called La Bodega 138! Alas, once we did find it, it was closed! However, all was good, we ended up eating at another awesome and character filled restaurant called Los Perros.  There were no seats at this place, only couches and tables! The food was delicious, we all shared a bottle of red wine and some Peruvian wontons, and then Rachel and I shared a sausage and mashed potato mixture. DE-licious. Needless to say, we went home VERY satisfied that night. 

Monday, October 1st: First things first, this day is Momma Swig's birthday, so it was bound to be a great one! Unfortunately I couldn't be home to celebrate with her, but next year is the big one (she's turning 30! woah!), so you know I'll all be there! This day was our Cusco exploration day. Being broke college students as it is, Rachel and I decided to do our own thing and tour ourselves around rather than go with a company.  The night before, we had seen a lighted figure of Christ on a hill fairly close to town, and decided we should hike to it! We named the figure, "Jesús en la Luz", and went on our way that morning! On the way, we found a little church with a couple of locals hanging around it, and stopped to take a couple pictures of the view. After a little, two Peruvian women asked us if we would like to take a photo with their baby llama, llama, and goat! Of course we knew there'd be a fee, so we asked how much it would cost, and they said whatever we felt like giving. We figured that was alright, and both went to take a photo! It definitely made for good photos... but, the baby llama still had a crunchy umbilical cord on it and may or may not have peed on me just a little. Oh yeah, that happened. The women were also not happy with the 5 soles (about $2USD) we had given them, and so we ended up giving a little more than we had wished. Oh well, all for a good photo right!? 

After running away from the slightly perturbed women, we continued our way up to Jesús en la Luz. We walked up several stairs, and then made it to a place where we saw a small welcome hut and many more tourists! There was a place to drive, so they had all been taken there by tours. We were just about to begin walking around when a man came up to us and asked to see our tickets... which we did not have. He said oh no problem, you can buy them here! When we asked how much they were, we had to ask him to repeat, because there was no way we had heard correctly. Wait, 70 soles ($35USD) to walk around Jesus and some Incan remains!? Uh, I don't think so. We said we would leave and walk back down. But, being the criminals/cheapskates that we are, we decided to walk down a ways to where the man couldn't see us, wait a bit, and then we would sneak up a way that didn't have as good of a path. We saw a local man go up that way, and figured, hey, if he can do it, so can we! After 5 minutes of hiding out, we snuck up that way, got to see Jesús and a great view, and all for free! Woot woot! 

Christo Blanco, a.k.a. Jesús en la Luz

 After this, we made our way back to the square to begin to try to find the restaurant from the night prior, La Bodega 138, to eat lunch! However, on the way we were surprised to arrive and see a parade with music going on! Apparently it was "Día del adulto mayor", basically a day for elderly people! How great that they have that, I think we should too in the states! After watching for awhile, we decided we were very hungry and went on our way to find the restaurant. Alas, being the American gringas that we are, we spent an hour looking for it after getting lost, and then when we finally did find it, it was still closed! GAH! Thankfully there was another delicious looking restaurant on the same corner, where we decided we deserved a glass of wine and shared a salad and sandwich. Then we went back to the hostel, rested, and then set off to spend the rest of the afternoon exploring a local mercado. We then had our first group meeting for our trek at 7pm, where we were briefed on all that would be happening in the upcoming days and got to meet the rest of the people in our group! We were with quite the amazing group of people.  One of the couples, Hala and Gabriel, are both international lawyers from Ottawa, Canada who were spending two weeks in Peru! They had both worked in the middle east in the past and were really interesting to talk to and get to know! The other couple was on their one year anniversary trip, celebrating the honeymoon they didn't get to go on! Their names were Kenric and Beth.  Both are doctors in the Navy, Kenric a radiologist and Beth an anesthesiologist. They were super fun, and absolutely hilarious. So here Rachel and I were, surrounded by lawyers and doctors, about to embark on the journey of a lifetime! The group deemed us the translators, which was a title and position we were happy to hold among such an accomplished group. We also got to meet our guide, James! He was definitely the best guide we could have asked for. After the meeting, we were VERY determined to finally go to the elusive La Bodega 138, so we were off to find it. Since we had really figured out where it was earlier, it was not difficult to get to, and thankfully, WAS OPEN! Woohoo! Definitely well worth the wait. We shared a jar of delicious sangria, a medium pizza, and unlimited garlic bread with the best sauces, all for under $25USD. SO good. Then it was off to bed, because we had to be ready at 5am the next day! With our bellies full and our bodies tired from a full day on the town, we passed out.

Tuesday, October 2nd: Per usual here in South America, we were told to be ready at 5am, and didn't end up getting picked up until 5:40am! We were told it was due to a flat tire... but I really wouldn't be surprised if it was just the usual lateness that people seem to have here! We then embarked on a two hour drive to a small town called Quishuarani, stopping along the way at a small market to buy gifts for local kids along the trails, and then we started our trek, 14km or almost 9 miles today.  Before we started however, we met our cook and porters! The porters accompanied the mules that carried the food, tents, etc. to and from all the places we needed to go, and the cook walked with them as well.  However, I'm not so sure I should say they were walking... we always had about a 45 minute to 1 hour lead on them, but they always passed us and had everything set up at the lunchsites/campsites well before we arrived! They were so impressive. It was hard adjusting to the altitude at first,  but I was able to start readjusting to Colorado type elevations after awhile.  Starting at about 12,000 feet coming from sea level really isn't that easy of a thing to do! The hike was beautiful, we got to see several lagunas and beautiful things along the way! Our campsite that night was about 12,500 feet, so still pretty high up there! Alfredo, the cook, and the porters (who helped cook) made absolutely amazing food the entire trip. It was serious gourmet eating up there in the mountains, even though we were the only people for miles around us! Before and after most of our meals, we played cards as a group! James taught us all a group called "Steal the Llama," which I didn't really understand/wasn't very good at, but everyone else seemed to like it a lot! After a long day of hiking and lots of tea/food in our stomachs, we were yet again ready to pass out. Oh, and did I mention how much tea we drank? When you drink that much tea, you really gotta go to the bathroom. And when you gotta go to the bathroom in the middle of nowhere, what do you do? As James would say, you pick a flower! AKA, you go and find somewhere secretive, and do your business. Picking flowers was rather cold way up there in the mountains! While we were a bit colder this time than in the hostel, when you're that exhausted, the temperature doesn't really matter all that much, you just pass out! Below are some photos from day 1.

Laguna in the background!

Giving a sparkly barrette to a local girl, and a tortuga to the boy!

Wednesday, October 3rd: We were pleasantly surprised this morning when we were awoken with warm teas delivered to our tents! After struggling to get out of our warm sleeping bags to change clothes, we put our stuff together and went to breakfast. Then we got started on what was going to be our longest day of hiking, 16km or about 10 miles, with our highest elevation as well! Before getting to the hardest part of the hike though, we were invited into the home of a local family along the path.  It was an elderly couple who also lived with their daughter and her family.  They told us (in Quechua, the local language) about how they lived, what their daily routines entailed, and many other things! They were so inviting and adorable.  Below is a photo of their grandson, also a cutie!

After this little and much welcomed detour, we went on our way. We hiked until about 11:30am, stopped for lunch, had a nice little siesta in the tent, and again went on our way. This time however, we were walking to the hardest part of our hike, over Auroracasa Pass! After a lot of heavy breathing and small breaks, we made it to the top, 4600 meters or 15134 feet! Woo! I can now officially say I've hiked a 14er, make that a 15er, in Peru! We regained our strength here, while also freezing our butts off, and also got to make a small pile of rocks (I forget the word they use for it in Peru!) with our wishes underneath. We made a small ceremony at the top, and passed around three Coca leaves (yes, the leaves used to make cocaine, among other things!).  The tradition is to have the three leaves, and make three wishes. The first wish is for the person you love most in the world, the second wish is for your family, and the third wish is for your friends and other people in the world.  After we passed around the three leaves, we all picked up a rock, set the leaves on the ground, and made the rock pile on top the leaves. Because this path is so rarely traveled, the piles stay where they are unless bothered by rain or wind, and that is very good luck for the wishes!

Our group at the top of Auroracasa pass! Gabriel, Hala, me, Rachel, Kenric, and Beth!

From here we made our descent in hopes for warmer temperatures, but unfortunately in remained very very cold, as you can see from how much clothing I'm wearing below! Two pairs of pants, 3 shirts, a heavy jacket, rain jacket, headband, and gloves! Brrr!

Brrrrr!!!

This night after making it to our campsite (3900 meters, about 12000 feet), and after yet another delicious meal, we got to have a campfire and a delicious tea called macho tea! The macho tea had a little bit of Peruvian rum in it, and while it definitely wasn't very strong, it and the fire still helped to warm up our bodies a little! Both of the couples ended up going to bed a little early, but Rachel and I weren't all that tired, so stayed up talking to James, sharing stories, and practicing our spanish! A very fun and memorable evening :)

Thursday, October 4th: This was an easy day of walking! We got to wake up at 6:30 today, very nice to sleep in! Then we had breakfast, packed up, and went on our way. Because we had gained so much elevation the day prior, this day was simply four hours of hiking all downhill. I thought I would be glad to have downhill, but my poor ankles and knees were absolutely killing me! We made it to the lunch spot, and also the spot that our hiking would finish.  After our last yummy lunch by Alfredo, we said our goodbyes to him and the porters, and a bus picked us up and took us to a town called Ollantaytambo where we would catch the train to Aguas Calientes, the town before Machu Picchu! We had a little time to kill in Ollantaytambo, so Rachel, Ken, Beth and I decided that a pisco sour was a necessary congratulatory gift to ourselves. We also might have had chocolate banana pancakes. Yeah... definitely one of the best meals I've had so far while in South America :) After waiting a little bit longer, the four of us caught the 4pm train to Aguas Calientes, while James, Hala, and Gabriel were waiting for the later train. The train ride was quite the experience! After being in the mountains by ourselves for a couple days, it was kind of weird being back in the touristy swing of things. Less than 30 seconds after our train had left, practically EVERYone had their cameras out, were hanging out the windows, leaning over other people, and basically being just ridiculous in order to get pictures! I won't deny that the paisaje was beautiful, it's just... really people? Really? We found it almost more entertaining to watch all of the people in the train rather than enjoying the views! Upon our arrival to Aguas Calientes, someone from our travel company met us at the train station, and took us to the hostel. We got our things settled down, and decided we deserved a quick dip in the local hot springs! Our new friend Jonathan, from the travel company, walked us up to where it was. We paid our 10soles (about $4USD) to get in, and made our way up! Once we did arrive, we noticed that we were definitely the only tourists there. This was a very local spot! Unfortunately, the water was not as hot as we had been hoping, and the water quality was... well, let's just say I'm glad it was fairly dark so I couldn't see as well as normally. After this, we went back to the hostel, and enjoyed a shower and dinner.  James called, and unfortunately informed us that they were not going to be able to make it that night! That meant that they would have to take the 5am train ride the next morning, and that we would have to arrive at Machu Picchu 2 hours later than expected. Oh well, on the bright side, we were going to get to sleep in a little longer than originally planned!

Friday, October 5th: Finally the day had arrived! The reason for the trip! MACHU PICCHU!!! We were supposed to be woken up at 5:30am, and be ready for breakfast and to go by 6:30am.  We heard a knock that morning, and got up as planned. After we had washed our faces and brushed our teeth, Rachel looked at her phone clock and said it was only 4:45am... we decided her phone must be an hour slow and continued getting ready! Then we went downstairs, packed and ready to go. After eating breakfast, Ken and Beth still weren't down, and we were starting to get worried! At about 6:35am, they finally came downstairs! It wasn't that important they were late, especially considering the other group wasn't even there yet. However, once we started talking to the two of them, they said, "You know it's only just now 5:35am, right?" And we said, no, no, we weren't supposed to be woken up until 5:30am, plus the clocks down here say it's 6:35am! But ohhhh wait. Apparently our clock reading skills had been altered from the high altitude the past couple days. It was in fact only 5:35am, not 6:35am.  Upset at ourselves for not sleeping in the extra hour, we moved forward, had another cup of tea, and just waited for the others to arrive! Once they did, we had a nice little reunion, and finally (drumroll please) we took the bus up to Machu Picchu! Wahoo! We made it there, checked in, and were in! First thing was first, we had to get the ever popular tourist photo that everyone has! James told us that days liek that day were his favorite, when there were clouds coming down and covering parts of the remains, super cool! Check it out below!

Machu Picchu, with Waynapicchu in the background! 

My Machu Picchu picture!

James told us that in Quechua, the language that had been spoken by the Inca's and still is spoken by several people in Peru, Machu Picchu means old mountain.  Fun fact: Machu Picchu isn't actually the name of this abandoned Inca city, in fact, it is the name of a mountain behind the remains.  When Hiram Bingham was exploring Peru, he was not even looking for this area, he was looking for another city which was said to be one of the last places that the Spanish made it to. During his travels, a boy from the mountains came down to where Bingham was camping, and kept saying Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu, and pointing up towards the mountains and clouds! Bingham, with no other plans, decided to follow the boy up. And once up, he found what we now know as Machu Picchu! Unfortunately, the actual name of the city is unknown, and potentially even forever lost. This city was specifically reserved for the wealthy and royalty of the Inca empire, and was impecibly designed! Because it is located in an incredibly rainy area, it is incredible how the buildings and landscape is able to remain practically unharmed from weathering and natural disasters. This is mainly because of the impressive landscaping and drainage system that had been constructed. There is a drainage system throughout the entire city, that redirects any and all water to the agriculture areas or off the side of the mountain rather than flooding the area! Also, all doors and windows are built with an inclination, and the corners of buildings are with one rock rather than two rocks meeting at the corner, all in efforts to prevent destruction from earthquakes and other natural occurrences!  See some of the buildings below.

After being more and more impressed with the advanced community that the Inca's had there, it was time to hike Waynapicchu! No big deal, we were only going to hike up 1500 steep, steep stairs after having just finished walking about 25-30 miles in the past 3.5 days. Phew. Did I mention it was steep? Yeah, meaning there were steel cables, ropes, and other things on the side in order to assist hikers going up and down! At one point the stairs were so skinny and steep that many people were going down slowly backwards... Elizabeth may or may not have even crab walked down in order to not fall! At the end of that section of stairs, my legs were definitely shaking.  Despite the leg shaking and sore ankles/knees, the view we were granted at the top was more than worth it! It was a birds eye view of all of the lost city as well as the beautiful surrounding landscape. See below!

Rachel and I admiring the view.

We made our way back down, paid for the bus, and were back to the hostel right on time for lunch.  After that, all that was left was getting back to Cusco.  2 hour train ride to Ollantaytambo, and then about a 2-3 hour bus drive from there to Cusco.  We were pretty exhausted at this point, but really wanted to make the best of our last night together and in Peru, so naturally, we showered and got ready, put a little make up on for the first time in a week, and made our way out!  We had talked with James earlier, and he wanted to go out as well, so we met him at the fountain in La Plaza de Armas, and then we went to a bar/discoteca really nearby.  It was great! There was a fun mix of locals and tourists, the music was great, and the mojitos were even better. We spent the night dancing, laughing, and just having a great time! With such early flights the next morning (Rachel caught a taxi at 6am, me at 8am), we were definitely at exhaustion level, but the memories we had made in the past week will never be forgotten!  Thanks to Rachel, James, and everyone in the group for making this experience so unforgettable! My own words cannot even describe how life changing this past week was for me.  Much love to all of you, and since this has probably been the longest blogpost in the history of this blog, and I'm officially out of things to say, I'll let someone else's words sum up this week for me.

"To travel is to awaken." -Lily Tsay

Halfway Mark...

I have been in Chile for 75.5 days. I have 75.5 more days to go. For those of you who aren't math wizards, that means I'm halfway done with my time here... so weird! And also bittersweet. As my friend Laura pointed out... that means that we're on the downhill, that every day that passes means one day we are closer to leaving.  I am absolutely loving my time here traveling, going to the beach, spending time with my host family, and just getting to know the Chilean culture. But at the same time, I really do miss so much from home! I think one of the best things that will come out of my time here (although there are sure to be SO many) is that I appreciate everything I have at home so much more. At the end of my sophomore year at DU, I can't say I was excited to go back.  Everything seemed so repetitive, and I just really felt burnt out there. But after having been here, I have realized what incredible people I'm surrounded by there, and how fortunate I am to have everything I do. I know that that must seem like the typical abroad student thing to say, but it really is true. It's not even so much that I miss the material things, like my car, mom's chocolate chip cookies, normal grocery stores, etc... I mean I miss those, but I really do know that I could live without them. What this experience has really showed me is that no matter where you are, the most important thing is the people you are surrounded by. I have so many incredible people in my life back in the US, and I really do appreciate and miss every single one of you!

Okay, I know I've been really bad about posting recently, so here's a quick update!

At the end of my week off of school, some of my friends from school invited me to go on a beach getaway weekend with them to a small town called Horcón! Horcón is about an hour and a half micro ride from Viña, so we left on Thursday, and were off! We spend the weekend in a cute little cabaña that was perfect for the six of us, and cooked, drank good wine, and spent a lot of time at the beach! One day we also went to a small town called Zapallar, which is another hour and a half from Horcón. The town here and beach was beautiful and clean, and really the only way I can explain it is that the people, homes, and cars led me to believe that this town is the Chilean equivalent of the Hamptons. Range Rovers, BMW's, huge white houses, the works! Definitely a change of pace, but I still prefer Horcón and Viña.

This past week of school was the hardest I've had yet here... and still when I'm saying that, it wasn't even that bad. I've had MUCH worse at DU! I had two presentations and three essays this week, two of those essays and one presentation in spanish. It was a lot, but I got it done (sometimes last minute... my Thursday essay was started on Wednesday night at 8:30pm, and finished 45 minutes before class... whoops!). Other news this week... my friends Laura and Lindsey came to my house after class on Thursday night, and we had plans to make cookies and watch a movie! We made the cookies in the form of cookie bars (just like Momma Swig!), and then when they came out, I asked the girls if they had ever heard of pazookie. They both looked at me with a look of, DUH, and so naturally we took the ice cream out of the freezer, and had a great time devouring an entire pan of cookies and ice cream. Oh yeah, we did that. Yum. Afterwards we watched Toy Story 3. While this definitely wasn't enhancing our Chilean culture experience, it was a pretty great time to just veg out with friends and relax :)

Then, my host sister, Leslie (23), and I went running/working out yesterday! She's been wanting to work out with me for awhile now, and yesterday worked for both of us! She wasn't quite used to the distances I run (which really isn't that much, but she hasn't ran that much in the past), so we had to walk/stop sometimes, but we had a lot of fun! When we got back we also did abs together... and then made a delicious pasta lunch with homemade sauce! It was really good bonding time! Then last night, I was having oncé with my host parents, and we were just having a great conversation. It's so nice to finally be able to feel like I really am a part of the family who can contribute to the conversations and express my own opinion! There are definitely words I still struggle saying, like... refrigerator and europeans (refrigerador and europeos), which led to a really funny incident last night. After my parents found out I couldn't say europeos, they spent some time trying to help me pronounce it. They broke it up into syllables... "eh-oo-ro-pe-os." This really helped me, and I said those parts very slowly, after getting it down better, I apparently said the last part, "pe-os" rather strongly in comparison to the other parts, and both of my parents started laughing at me! I had no idea what was going on, and asked, "¿Qué!? ¿Qué significa "peos"?" (What? What does "peos" mean?), and they continued to laugh. My host mom then went on to make noises and hand signals which led me to understand that she thought I was pronouncing it with a "d", and the word "pedos" is the equivalent of the english word, "fart". Yup. Fart. Then of course I had to teach the both of them the word fart, and how to say it in a sentence. My host sisters came home from being out of town for awhile, and the first thing my host mom said to them was, "Who farted?!" Hahaha. I'm such a good influence. We were dying laughing. This is the second time in two weeks that I have been in tears from laughing so hard at my dining table with my family. Definitely not something I'm upset about!

Overall a really great week, minus all the school work. Tomorrow I leave at 5am to go to Peru to see MACHU PICCHU with my dear friend Rachel. I have been looking forward to this trip for so long, it's hard to believe that it's actually here! Needless to say, you probably won't be hearing from me for awhile, but I promise to have some great things for you when I get back! Miss you all, chau for now!

A Week Without Sleep

Fiestas de Patrias. Oh lord. Where to begin. So for those of you who don't know, Chile's "Independence Day" is September 18th. This year, the date happened to fall on a Tuesday. Usually students and workers get both the 17th and the 18th off, and for some reason, this year they decided it was necessary to cancel school for the 19th-21st as well. Meaning I get an entire week off of school. But hey, I'm certainly not complaining! Anyway, after my Thursday night class, it was officially party time! Thursday and Friday actually didn't contain much... Friday I went to the beach to read for a bit which was really nice! However, I kid you not when I tell you that I couldn't have been there for more than 30-40 minutes, and that night, I was fried. Mamá told me that the sun here is a lot stronger, and I definitely figured that out. Apparently I'll be wearing sunscreen everywhere I go once it starts being more consistently sunny! Anyway, here's what has been happening the past couple of days:

Saturday: My host sister, Leslie (23), invited me to go to this party with her about a week ago. She had been talking about it everyday at lunch the whole week prior, and I was really excited to go out with her! She and her novio (fiancé) picked me up at 7pm, and we went to their house in Valparaíso.  We weren't going to leave until 10:30 or 11, so I was a little concerned about why I was being picked up so early, but as I've learned down here, Chileans like to take their sweet time doing things, including getting ready to go out apparently! Leslie let me borrow a dress (if you could call it that... it was SO tiny) and heels (also too small, ouch feet) to go out, and she did my makeup and hair for me. Needless to say, after 3 hours of getting ready, we looked gewd.  Memo (novio) drove us to the bar, and on the way we picked up some of her friends. Memo's car is perfect for 4 people. It's very small, but 4 is definitely doable. The 7 people we ended up packing in there however, was not a very comfortable/safe situation... especially driving down the crazy hills of Valpo! I mostly just kept my eyes shut the whole way, ignorance is bliss right?  Then we went to Bar Barcelona, had some drinks with her friends, and afterwards danced the night away! On the way back to my house, we all stopped at McDonalds and enjoyed some french fries at 5:00am. This is often how my nights out end here in Chile. These people love Mickey D's. But who doesn't love some good salty fries at the end of a night out!? Overall I had a great time this night, and it was really good bonding for my sister and I!

Sunday: Well, because we didn't get home til 5:30am from the previous night out, I definitely slept in on Sunday. Until 2:00pm. Yup. Dad, you can be proud, I'm finally sleeping in! Although I'm sure you're not too excited about the whole going to bed at 5:30 thing... sorry! When I did wake up, my host family and I had lunch together, que rico! Usually our lunches here last a little bit longer, just because it is the biggest meal of the day, but this day we were at the table for two and a half hours just talking and talking! This is one thing I really love about my host family, and am so grateful for, they just love to talk! And they really try to include me in conversations! I attribute all of my improvements in Spanish to them. They are so helpful, and really try to make sure I'm always understanding what's going on. At the end, my stomach was filled to the maximum (per usual) and my brain was a little tired after focusing so much on spanish! That night, my host sisters Leslie and Coté were taking me to las ramadas.  Las ramadas happen only during Fiestas de Patrias, and are basically a giant mix of a carnival, barbecue, dance, and outdoor shopping market thing. Basically, just a lot of fun! We rode some of the rides, drank Mote con huesillos, and had a good time.  Mote con huesillos is a really odd drink... basically, it has something similar to oats/oatmeal things at the bottom, peach juice, and 2 small skinned peaches in every cup (it's eaten/drank with a spoon). It sounds really weird, probably because it is, but it was actually quite delicious! I was really tired from the night before, but I knew that I'd be getting to go home at a decent hour this night to get some sleep! However, as I've learned here in Chile many times, things are never what I think they're going to be! When we left la ramada, my sisters informed me we were going dancing. I had no choice in this decision, just was told! Oh well, así es la vida! We went to a bar in Valpo, ordered Terremotos for the table, and danced the night away yet again, this time only until 4:30am. So early! Ha. My host sisters seemed to know a new dance to every single song that came on, while I just awkwardly danced to my own beat.  I've definitely got some learning to do on the hip moving... Oh, and do I have a jóte story for you all! So, as we were all dancing, a guy came up and started dancing with us, he then started talking to me, which was fine, he seemed nice enough, that is until he stuck his tongue out. I'm not sure if I misinterpreted what was happening in our conversation or what, but I'm not really sure how talking about what I'm studying here in Chile and his tongue have in common. He apparently had a big urge to show me his tongue ring... yup, that's right. His tongue ring. He then went on to say how much the ladies like it, and I decided that was my cue to get the hell out of dodge and pull the, "Necesito ir al baño, chau!" move. Thankfully he was gone when I came back. Phew. Crisis averted. Overall, another good night, especially because it also ended with really healthy food... more peach juice and snickers bars! Yum!

Mote con huesillos

I stole this picture from a friend on facebook... la ramada!

S

Monday: Slept in until 11am today, I just couldn't sleep anymore! This day was so great, I got to spend more quality time con la familia. I learned how to make empanadas! And not just a couple, we made over 60!!! And these things are big, and time consuming to make! Once we made all the ingredients for the insides, we started working on the dough, and then the empanada making began! I was in charge of filling and folding, and my host family said that I had the prettiest empanada folds they'd ever seen... bacán! (Bacán is chilean slang for "cool!"). There are a couple types of empanadas, and today we made  pino, napolitana, and a jamón, queso, y pollo one.  The pino empanada is a chicken/sweet onion mixture, with two quarters of a hard boiled egg on each side and an olive in the middle. Napolitana is basically like pizza in an empanada, and the other one is pretty self explanatory, ham cheese and chicken! The whole time we were making them, we listened to traditional cueca music and just overall had a wonderful time! This was really good bonding again with the whole family. After a long day of empanada making, we went to the ramada again as a family, ate some cotton candy, went on some rides, and had a great time overall. Another cool thing that happened on Monday- I found out that one of my photos was chosen to be on DU's homepage to represent study abroad! My name was even mentioned! Celebrity status over here people. Watch out world.

Mamá and I sharing cotton candy!

Learning how to make empanadas!

Watching the fuegos artificiales (fireworks) in Valpo!

My first empanada!

DU famous!!

Tuesday: Fiestas de Patrias! The day finally came! So much celebrating led up to this day, and finally the real deal was here. My family had a big empanada lunch, and then later my friend Rachel and I went to some Chilean friends apartment for an asado/to hang out! We ended up having some delicious meats, chicken, choripan, the works! We also played beerio kart. I mean, how many people can say they've played beerio kart in Chile!? Not many I'd say. Good stuff. We ended up just hanging around the apartment playing games, dancing, and having a great time. Didn't get home until 6:30am this morning. Brutal. It's a good thing this week is almost over, I can't handle the schedule of going out!

Today (Wednesday): Slept in until 2:00pm. Yup, 2:00pm. I'm turning into such a bum. Waking up though was really pleasant thankfully, as I was awoken with the smell of barbecue! My family made anticucho again, and we had lots of other yummy meats and sides as well! Mamá also made a typical Chilean drink for the family, it's called Cola de Mono (Monkey Cola). It's so delicious! It has no type of cola in it, so I'm a little confused as to where the name came from, but again it's just one of those things that I've decided not to ask questions about. It has vanilla, coffee, milk, a liquor called aguardiente, and a couple of other ingredients. It's served cold, and is really tasty! Mamá is giving me the recipe and taking me to the place where I can buy the liquor so I can make it at home :) This lunch was again a rather long one, about 2 hours, and the conversation was wonderful as always. However, the overall best part of todays lunch conversation had to do with my family learning a new word in english. Now, this word they learned was not a "good" word, so if you for some reason care to avert your virgin eyes, now would be the time. So how this story starts... Kiika, my sister who knows a little english, was describing to me in spanish that today in Chile is called "Día de concha tu madre".  Basically the day after the independence day where everyone is hungover, and this saying is something that people apparently say when they are frustrated, like when they burn themselves cooking or hurt themselves or something. I thought it meant something along the lines of son-of-a-b... and asked that, and she said, "No... concha es más como...pussy!" And of course, being the mature person that I am, I immediately started giggling. I don't really get the saying, I think it's one of those things where literally translated it doesn't mean the same thing. Anyway, my host parents, who both really like learning new english words, both started repeating, "pushee? pussay? pushay?" trying to get it right... and all the while, I am laughing the hardest I have laughed the entire time I've been in Chile. I was crying. At this point, every member of my family at the table was trying to pronounce this word, all saying it over and over, and I'm just sitting there with my head in my hands trying to breathe. So there we were, me craughing (cry-laughing), my family laughing and repeating the word over and over... just one big happy unconventional family. They obviously didn't really understand what it meant, and I tried to explain to them that it's just not a word that people commonly say, and it's not necessarily a terrible cuss-word, but it's also not a nice word to say. Oh man. Quite the day.

And now, here I am, finally resting and hopefully going to bed at a decent hour tonight. Tomorrow I'm going to a small beach/fisherman's town with a couple girls from my school, it's called Horcón! We are renting a small condo for 6 people, and just going to relax and hopefully have an overall good time doing nothing but being lazy. You'll have updates later this week I'm sure. For now, that's all I have! Sorry for the long one again. ¡Nos vemos!

Cold Showers

After my usual morning run on the beach this morning, I came back to the house, did a quick ab workout, and got in the shower as usual. Now, for those of you who I already complain to about this, I'm sorry you have to hear it again, but for those of you who don't know, my house usually only has hot water between the hours of 6am-11:30am, and again from 6pm-10pm (if I'm lucky). Don't ask me why, because I don't know! What I do know is that I certainly am not waking up here before 8am, because I have no need to, and I usually prefer to workout in the mornings, so morning showers are a necessity to be clean for the rest of the day! Today I finished working out at 11:00am, plenty of time to still grab a hot shower. I let the water warm up, got in, but, unfortunately for me, sometimes the water decides to stop being hot even before 11:30 on certain days! Que chucha!? This being said, I had about 45 seconds of hot water, and then the rest was cold. Yup. It's 50 degrees outside, probably 52 degrees inside my house (no central heating either people!), and I'm taking an ice bath for a shower. Lovely. To demonstrate how I felt as this was happening, I googled a picture for you all. This was my face. I may or may not have screamed a little once or twice.

However, in googling this picture, I also found many links describing the health benefits of taking cold showers! Intrigued by why anyone would ever want to be that miserable on a daily basis, I took a look. Here are some of the benefits that were listed:

1. Enhance immunity against infections and cancer
2. Jump-start your mood and motivation
3. Crank up metabolism to fight type 2 diabetes, obesity, gout, depression, and more
4. Normalize blood pressure
5. Decrease chronic pain
6. Detoxify your body
7. Fight fatigue
8. Rejuvenate, heal, and tone the skin
9. Help with insomnia
10. Improve lymphatic circulation, thereby increasing immune function
11. Reduce stress by regulating your autonomic nervous system
12. Keep your hair healthy

 So, I guess that cold showers really aren't that bad! While I still won't be purposely taking them, at least while it's still Winter here in Chile, if the water does turn cold as it so often does, I'll at least have something to be optimistic about while suffering!  Hope you all enjoyed your nice warm showers this morning, but just remember, if the water does turn on you, look for the bright side!